LOT.411 M-1918 RAIN COAT

This raincoat, a product of the New Deal policy to meet sudden demand, was provided by the army's surplus clothing to the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps). The design, which originated from ponchos worn by the cavalry, was created in 1918.

At that time, the cutting-edge waterproof technology was a rubberized specification. Modern waterproof fabrics like Gore-Tex are available today, yet this raincoat features details similar to contemporary designs, including underarm ventilation to prevent moisture buildup.

This coat, which was used as rain gear during the latter part of World War I, reappeared during the Great Depression. Previously made from plain woven cotton fabric, T.T adopted a fabric woven from linen and washi paper.

In Japan, traditional techniques increased the waterproofness and durability of paper by coating it with persimmon tannin, oil, or lacquer, which also made it suitable for raincoat materials. The core approach of T.T revolves around reviving Western clothing from a century ago using Japanese techniques, leading to the idea of applying persimmon tannin dye to a fabric that includes washi paper, resulting in this distinctive coat.

Using persimmon tannin for garment dyeing, the coat features a marbling pattern that reflects tree rings captured one point at a time from the water's surface. Marbling, derived from a play during the Heian period, originally involved transferring ink from the water's surface onto washi paper. By slowly dropping ink repeatedly at the center of a circle, irregular, concentric rings resembling tree rings are formed on the water. Each coat is floated on this surface to capture the concentric pattern, with the unique design created as even a slight breeze prevents the same pattern from reappearing. By leaving the final touch to nature, the design encompasses the time it takes to form the beauty and rings of nature that cannot be controlled by human hands.