Tokyo • Oversized • One Size
A two-person Tokyo label built on a single conviction: one size, worn big and wide. From upcycled patchwork to Harris Tweed, every piece is engineered to drape, not fit.
Sillage begins with a problem: its founder couldn’t find clothes wide enough. Nicolas “Yuthanan” Chalmeau — half French, half Thai, living in Tokyo — launched a single pair of wide-cut trousers in July 2018. What followed was a label that treats “oversized” not as a trend but as a pattern-making discipline: raglan shoulders, adjustable waists, and silhouettes that drape around the body rather than cling to it. Six years later, it’s still a two-person operation, still one size, and still shipping every order themselves.
The timeline: from Paris to a Tokyo atelier
- 2014
- Yuthanan begins using Instagram as a tool to share his style, sneakers, and photography — building the community that would later become Sillage’s audience.
- 2015
- First trip to Japan. Through connections from Paris, he’s introduced to 1LDK in Nakameguro — eventually joining the team for buying, creative, and photography.
- July 2018
- Sillage’s first pants launch while the founder is “having a burger.” Wide-cut trousers in one size sell to the Instagram community he’d been cultivating for years. The brand is born.
- 2018 – 2020
- Roughly 15 pop-ups across multiple Asian cities in two years. The brand grows without a single wholesale account — direct-to-community only.
- Aug 2020
- eye_C Magazine publishes a deep-dive interview. Yuthanan talks hip-hop influences, the “Baggy Trousers” name, and working as a two-person team with partner Masa.
- Sep 2021
- Hypebeast “Essentials” feature: Yuthanan shares his everyday carry — including a Sillage flap cap made from antique Indian quilts, which he calls “a best seller.”
- Spring 2024
- Hypebeast covers the Spring collection: Popover Shirts in pastel stripes, ties made from leftover shirt fabric, and an Artisanal Collection crafted from varying silk fabrics.
- Winter 2024
- Harris Tweed outerwear, the brand’s first-ever knitwear line, deadstock houndstooth gilets, and padded mufflers round out the most expansive seasonal drop to date.
Design DNA: one size, every body
Every Sillage garment is cut in a single size. That sounds like a limitation, but it’s actually the design constraint that defines the brand. Raglan shoulders eliminate the usual shoulder-seam sizing issue. Adjustable drawstring waists let the wearer cinch pants to their own body. The result is a silhouette that looks intentionally oversized on a smaller frame and comfortably roomy on a larger one — never tight, never “too big by accident.”
The founder connects this directly to urban and hip-hop influences. He named one of the brand’s best sellers “Baggy Trousers” outright, and says he doesn’t hesitate to ask customers to lower their pants when he meets them. But the shapes also nod to Japanese tradition: the Hakama Pants reference martial-arts silhouettes, while the Circular Pants describe an almost 360-degree drape from waist to hem.
Three collections, one philosophy
Sillage organizes its output into three lines — Essential, Artisanal, and Antique — each representing a different relationship between material, craft, and scarcity.
Essential
The core uniform. Tropical wool, loopwheel cotton, and oxford fabric cut into the brand’s “most recognized pieces.” Seasonless, all-climate, and always in stock. This is what built the reputation.
Artisanal
Upcycled garments cut into square patches, reassembled into patchwork sheets by artisans in Tokyo, then sent to a factory in Okayama for buttoning. Every piece is hand-numbered by artist Naoyuki Yoda. No two are the same.
Antique
One-of-one pieces made from vintage fabrics and quilts. The brand calls these “limited to one” and frames the line around re-using found materials rather than producing new ones.
Seasonal (Winter / Summer)
Heavier or lighter fabrications that rotate in and out: Harris Tweed coats and sheepskin jackets in winter; lighter linens and nylons for summer. Often produced in minimal quantities.
Signature pieces
Pants are the foundation — Yuthanan calls them “definitely our strength.” Three trouser silhouettes anchor the wardrobe, with tailoring and outerwear completing the full look.
Circular Pants
The brand’s roundest, widest trouser. A steep taper creates a dramatic drape from a very wide hip. Two drawstrings with stoppers. Essential at ¥34,000; Harris Tweed at ¥78,000; sheepskin at ¥160,000.
Hakama Pants
Sillage’s first design. A wide, straight cut inspired by martial-arts hakama. The most relaxed, straight-falling silhouette in the line. Essential at ¥34,000; Artisanal “bleu de travail” at ¥78,000.
Baggy Trousers
Named after the hip-hop influence at the brand’s core. Founder calls these “one of our best selling pants.” Essential at ¥34,000; pleats anthracite at ¥48,000.
Veste Two Button
A sleek 2B jacket with parachute buttons, button-up lapel, and fully piped interior. The top-half anchor of the Sillage uniform. Essential anthracite at ¥45,000; sheepskin at ¥160,000.
Fireman Coat
Statement outerwear in Harris Tweed (plaid / houndstooth) at ¥88,000. The biggest, most recognizable silhouette in the seasonal line.
Flap Cap (Antique Quilts)
The founder’s go-to accessory — “a best seller from Sillage.” Made from vintage Indian quilts or Harris Tweed patchwork from leftover winter fabrics. Limited runs, hand-numbered by Naoyuki Yoda.
Materials & construction
Sillage’s material story escalates from accessible to rare. The Essential line uses tropical wool — a super-fine gauge, summer worsted wool that works in any climate — alongside loopwheel cotton and oxford cloth. Seasonal pieces introduce Harris Tweed (sourced from Scotland, cut in Japan), corduroy, and sheepskin. The Artisanal line goes further: sourced garments are deconstructed into patches, hand-reassembled into patchwork sheets by Tokyo-based artisans, then sent to a factory in Okayama for buttoning.
Everything is made in Japan. The brand frames its sustainability approach around re-using vintage fabrics, upcycling used clothing, and limiting production to minimal quantities — many pieces genuinely limited to one. No third-party sustainability certifications are referenced; the claims are self-declared.
Price positioning
Sillage sits in the premium small-batch Japanese production tier. Entry is around ¥32,000 for shirts; statement sheepskin pieces reach ¥160,000. The price escalation tracks directly with material rarity and handwork intensity.
| Category | Typical Range |
|---|---|
| Shirts / overshirts | ¥32,000 – ¥34,000 |
| Core pants (Essential) | ¥34,000 – ¥48,000 |
| Tailoring (Essential) | ¥45,000 – ¥48,000 |
| Seasonal jackets (corduroy) | ~¥58,000 |
| Harris Tweed outerwear | ¥82,000 – ¥88,000 |
| Artisanal (upcycled / numbered) | ¥68,000 – ¥78,000 |
| Sheepskin statement pieces | ~¥160,000 |
FAQ
It’s a French word. The founder says its English equivalent is close to “wake” — as in the trail left behind by a moving object. He chose it long before launching the brand.
Tokyo, Japan. The company (Le Sillage Co., Ltd.) is registered in Sarugaku, Shibuya-ku. Some retailer copy incorrectly calls it “Paris-based,” but multiple primary sources confirm Tokyo as the operational base.
Yes. Almost all garments come in a single size, engineered with raglan shoulders and adjustable drawstring waists. The intent is an oversized, draping fit on every body type. Check individual product pages for cm measurements.
Nicolas “Yuthanan” Chalmeau is the founder, designer, and creative lead. “Yuthanan” is his Thai name; “Nicolas” is his French name. He lived and studied fashion in Paris before relocating to Tokyo. His business partner is Masato “Masa” Tsuchiya, who handles production and marketing.
The official store is sillage.online. The brand also publishes a stockists list that includes Maiden Shop and Nid (Tokyo), Mohawk General Store and H.Lorenzo (Los Angeles), Blue in Green and Colbo (New York), Rendez-Vous (Paris), and more. For US-based buyers, Greybird ships from Tokyo with import duties covered. Domestic Japan shipping is free; overseas via DHL / FedEx / EMS in 2–3 business days.
Start with the Essential Collection: a pair of Baggy Trousers or Circular Pants in tropical wool (¥34,000) paired with a Re-engineered Overshirt (¥34,000). That gives you the core Sillage silhouette at the most accessible price point. Add Hakama Pants later for a different trouser shape.
Where to buy: official + trusted stockists
- sillage.online — free domestic JP shipping; overseas fees tiered by order value; DHL / FedEx / EMS; 2–3 business day delivery.
- Tokyo: Maiden Shop, Nid, BALANCE Nakameguro
- Japan: Dice&Dice (Fukuoka), COMES THE SUN (Kyoto)
- USA: Mohawk General Store (LA), Blue in Green (NYC), Colbo (NYC), Glasswing Shop (Seattle), H.Lorenzo (LA)
- Europe: Rendez-Vous (Paris)
- Asia: BEAKER (Seoul), Tom Greyhound (Seoul)
- Oceania: Maillot (Paddington, AU), HAVN (AU)
- Greybird — Tokyo & San Francisco-based shop that ships Sillage directly to the US. Import duties are covered (no extra fees on delivery).
- Contact within one week of arrival.
- Customer pays return shipping for convenience returns.
- Exclusions: discounted goods, items with odors/stains/damage.
How to recognize Sillage instantly
- Very wide trousers (Circular / Hakama / Baggy) as the silhouette anchor.
- One-size pattern logic: raglan shoulders + adjustable drawstring waist.
- Seasonless “capsule” approach — Essential as core uniform.
- Upcycled / vintage patchwork fabrics and hand-numbering (Artisanal / Antique lines).
- Made in Japan. Company address in Shibuya, Tokyo.
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